New Orleans

A Guide to New Orleans

There’s something about New Orleans that’s so mesmerizing. Maybe it’s the amazing food scene of po’boys and beignets. Maybe it’s the rich history that includes ghosts and pirates. Maybe it’s the quaint architecture of the French Quarter that runs into the craziness of Bourbon Street. Or maybe it’s all of the above. All I know is that I’ve been to the Big Easy five times and I’m continuously drawn back to it.

Where to Stay

The Troubador
The Troubador is a four-star hotel in the Central Business District. It doesn’t break the bank and it’s about a 10-minute walk from the outskirts of Bourbon Street and the French Quarter. It’s also only a five-minute walk from Canal Street, where you can hop on a street car. The rooms are really nice and there’s even a rooftop bar.

Hyatt Regency New Orleans
Also in the Central Business District is the Hyatt Regency New Orleans. The back of the property overlooks the New Orleans Saints Superdome and the New Orleans Pelicans Smoothie King Center, so it’s a convenient place to stay if you’re in town for a sporting event. It’s close enough to the French Quarter to walk (about 20 minutes), but also far enough away if Bourbon Street is not your scene.

Where to Eat

Brennan’s Restaurant
Open since 1946, Brennan’s is a New Orleans tradition. The interior dining room and upstairs private dining rooms are even more stunning than the building’s pink facade in the French Quarter. The menu draws inspiration from the city’s French and Spanish roots, and features dishes like turtle soup, shrimp and grits, and curried crab roulade. Dessert here is a no-brainer, as bananas foster was created at Brennan’s (I don’t even like bananas and I would still recommend).

Café Amelie
Café Amelie is named after Amelie Miltonberger, the mother of the first American princess of Monaco, who lived in an accompanying townhouse in the mid-19th century. Open since 2005 on Royal Street, it’s known for its charming courtyard covered in palm trees with lights strung throughout. Open for brunch and dinner, they serve Southern staples like shrimp and grits, gumbo, and Cajun catfish. For my fellow Bloody Mary fans, theirs is a 10/10.

Cafe Beignet
There are a few Cafe Beignets in the French Quarter. If you want to have the ultimate tourist experience, go to the one on Bourbon Street. While they have po’boys and omelets and other items on the menu, the star of the show is the beignets. Get an order of the official doughnut of Louisiana and enjoy them on their stunning outdoor patio where there’s live jazz every night.

Cafe du Monde
If you don’t go to Cafe du Monde, did you really go to New Orleans? While there are a ton of locations now, the original is in the French Market. Established in 1862, the open-air coffee shop is open 24/7 (although those hours may have changed due to Covid because when I went there at 2 a.m. after a night on Bourbon Street last month it was closed, so definitely double check before making a midnight visit). Their beignets are warm and soft, covered in tons of powdered sugar, and must be paired with a café au lait, hot or iced.

Chemin à la Mer
One of the more upscale options in the Big Easy, Chemin à la Mer is inside of the Four Seasons New Orleans. The restaurant overlooks the Mississippi River and serves classic Creole fare like steamed Louisiana shrimp, seafood gumbo, and grit cake. After the meal, head downstairs for a cocktail at their stunning lobby bar.

Copper Vine
A wine bar and restaurant, Copper Vine is a great dinner spot, especially for those staying at The Troubador or in the Central Business District. Craving Southern comfort food, I ordered the fried chicken sandwich and was not disappointed. We saw espresso martinis being made from across the restaurant and they looked so good that we had to order them for dessert.

Dat Dog
Dat Dog is a haven for hot dog lovers. But these aren’t your typical hot dogs. First you choose your sausage: Options include beef, Italian, alligator and duck. Then you choose your toppings: They have over 30 – like bacon, chipotle mayo and crawfish etouffee – at no extra charge, so go crazy. They also have burgers, cod and chicken breast, as well as vegan options.

La Boulangerie
Add La Boulangerie to your Magazine Street to-do list. The exterior immediately drew me in with its hanging greenery, and the menu was even better. Le Poulet comes with chicken salad, romaine, and mustard on a fresh croissant, and their take on a Croque Monsieur is all the traditional ingredients sandwiched between sourdough bread. The peach Arnold Palmer is so refreshing on a hot Louisiana day.

Manning’s Sports Bar and Grill
Owned by Caesars Entertainment and the Manning family, this sports bar is a must for football fans. The walls are decked out with Saints, Giants and Colts paraphernalia, and photos of the family. It’s an awesome game day spot, as they have a large screen in the outdoor courtyard and comfy recliners in front of the TV inside.

Maypop
Break away from the traditional Creole cuisine at Maypop. In the Central Business District, Maypop serves Southern-Asian fusion with dishes like tempura frog legs, crawfish and andouille tom yum over gnochetti pasta, and coconut braised lamb shoulder. I’m not an oyster fan but I actually liked their fried oysters with soy aioli and spicy cucumber, and the bibb lettuce salad with a coconut cucumber ranch was so delicious and refreshing.

Palace Cafe
One of Dickie Brennan’s many Big Easy-based restaurants, Palace Cafe honors New Orleans’ culinary history. They serve shrimp remoulade, gumbo, andouille-crusted fish, red beans and rice with catfish, etc. But the best item on the menu by far is the crabmeat cheesecake.

Pig Out BBQ
Knowing a good place to eat that isn’t overpriced or touristy in the French Quarter can be a challenge. Pig Out is great if you’re looking for a quick bite that won’t break the bank between sightseeing. Order at the counter, seat yourself, no frills. We got the pulled pork ($15) and brisket ($18) sandwiches, which both come with a side of curly fries.

Red Fish Grill
Specializing in seafood, oysters and po’boys, Red Fish Grill is a casual restaurant on the edge of Bourbon Street. They were named one of the “Best Seafood Restaurants” in the country by “Travel + Leisure,” so we naturally stuck with the seafood brunch options. I recommend the crawfish cakes and eggs solely for the side of sweet potato, onion and pepper hash. They also have items like blueberry and lavender pancakes and a cheeseburger if you’re not feeling fishy.

Rosie’s on the Roof
Rosie’s is the rooftop bar of the Higgins Hotel. Named after Rosie the Riveter, everything is World War II-themed as the hotel is next to the National World War II Museum. The bar offers views of the New Orleans skyline, cocktails like the “pistol packin’ mama,” and bites like crab beignets, blackened tuna tacos and alligator meatball po’babies.

Royal House
Royal House has been serving traditional Louisiana cuisine for over a decade in the French Quarter. As an oyster house, they serve the shellfish five different ways including Oysters Rockefeller and Oysters Royale. Their cocktail list includes many NOLA-esque drinks like a Cajun Bloody Mary, Voodoo Juice and Hurricane.

The Chloe
The Chloe is a boutique hotel and restaurant on St. Charles Avenue. The front patio is the best place to sit because the decor is stunning and you can watch the streetcar pass by, but the interior is definitely worth checking out as well. The food is amazing and the fried chicken on French toast may be the best fried chicken I’ve ever had. The Bloody Marys are also bomb.

Vessel
Located in an old church, Vessel’s slogan is “Eat. Drink. Congregate.” The sun streaming through the stained glass windows creates a really beautiful atmosphere. For $25, you can get a bottle of champagne and carafe of orange juice, making this probably the most fun you’ll ever have in a church.

What to Do

Cemetery Tour
Talk to any local about what to do in the city and they’ll most likely recommend touring one of the cemeteries. It’s a great way to learn about the local history and burial traditions. It’s also a great way to learn about some notable New Orleans people like the voodoo queen Marie Laveau, who’s buried at St. Louis Cemetery No. 1.

Bourbon Street
I mean, this is a no brainer. Nothing says New Orleans like walking around Bourbon Street with a hand grenade or some other frozen drink in hand (gotta love the open container law). I find the bars with live music to be the most fun. The amount of beads you get while on Bourbon is no one’s business but yours.

Tour (the Rest of) the French Quarter
The French Quarter is so much more than Bourbon Street, however. Jackson Square is absolutely stunning, the terraces overlooking the streets are so charming and there are tons of boutiques to check out. Allot a few hours to just wander aimlessly.

Ghost Tour
New Orleans has such a haunted history and there are plenty of ghost tours to prove it. There are a number of different tours depending on your interests: Ghosts, vampires, voodoo, cemeteries. Visit sites like the LaLaurie Mansion, Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop and other sites of paranormal activity. If you’re not scared of a good spooking, they’re actually a fun way to learn about New Orleans’ past. The Haunted Pub Crawl ended with the group taking a shot in a haunted bar that used to be a brothel.

Magazine Street
Spanning six miles, Magazine Street has a seemingly endless amount of restaurants, shops and cafes. If you need a food break, stop at Guy’s for po’boys, which came highly recommended to us by our New Orleans native Uber driver. You could easily spend hours on just this one street, so pick a starting point and get going.

Take the Streetcar Through the Garden District
If you’re looking for a cheap way to see the sights (or even just get around), the streetcar is it. The fare is only $1.25 and there are a few different lines depending on where you’re going. Hop on the St. Charles line and gawk at all of the gorgeous mansions lining the street in the Garden District.

The Fly
The Fly is a part of Audubon Park that looks over the Mississippi River. It’s a relaxing spot to have a sunset picnic and watch the ships go by down the river.

Visit the World War II Museum
Touted as New Orleans’ number one attraction, the National WWII Museum covers the entire war, as well as the events leading up to it. From Hitler’s rise to power to the invasion of Poland to D-Day to Pearl Harbor and the bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki, it goes into all of the gruesome details. The museum is massive, so definitely block off a few hours to explore all of the exhibits. In 2023 they launched “Expressions of America,” an immersive sound and light experience that’s definitely worth the watch.

Vue Orleans
Opened in 2022, Vue Orleans is an interactive cultural experience and observation deck. The lower floors have varying exhibits from New Orleans history, jazz and even cooking classes. At the top is a 360-degree observation deck and, because it’s New Orleans after all, there’s a 34th floor rooftop bar with unobstructed views of the city.

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